Introduction: Yearning for an Ancient City Embraced by Volcanoes
Antigua Guatemala, the ancient capital of Central America’s Guatemala, rests in the highlands at 1,500 meters above sea level. This city sits nestled in a valley surrounded by three majestic volcanoes. Having flourished as the Spanish colonial capital in the 16th century, its baroque churches, monasteries, and cobblestone streets continue to breathe with life today. Designated as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1979, this city is known as a treasure trove of colonial architecture, while also being a place where the indigenous culture woven by descendants of the Maya civilization harmoniously blends with the Latin culture brought by Spanish settlers.
The volcanic ash has created fertile soil, making this region renowned as one of the world’s finest coffee-producing areas. Under the watchful gaze of three volcanoes - Volcán de Agua, Volcán de Fuego, and Volcán Acatenango - time flows quietly through this city. The walls of stone buildings bear the memory of earthquakes, while church bells continue to ring through the streets unchanged since colonial times.
I chose this city because I was drawn to its layered history, the powerful force of volcanic nature, and above all, the warmth of the Guatemalan people who welcome travelers with open arms.
Day 1: Footsteps Echoing on Cobblestones Under Volcanic Shadows
About an hour’s drive from Guatemala City, climbing mountain roads where the air grows thinner and cooler as we ascend. Upon reaching the highland at 1,500 meters elevation, the first sight that captured my eyes was the magnificent silhouette of three volcanoes encircling the city. Particularly, the beautiful conical shape of Volcán de Agua was so perfectly formed, like Japan’s Mount Fuji, that it took my breath away.
When I stepped into Central Park around 10 AM, the emotion I felt was unforgettable. In the center of the plaza surrounded by colonial buildings stood a beautiful fountain, beyond which the yellow walls of the Cathedral gleamed in the morning sun. Each footstep on the cobblestones seemed to echo with history.
Local people sat on park benches leisurely reading newspapers. Schoolchildren in uniforms ran about after school, while indigenous women in colorful huipil traditional dress walked by selling vibrant textiles. This diversity, I realized, was the true charm of Antigua.
For lunch, I tried pepián, Guatemala’s representative dish, at a small restaurant near the park. This traditional recipe, dating back to Maya times, consisted of chicken and vegetables simmered in a rich sauce made from pumpkin seeds, sesame, and chili peppers. The subtle spice fragrance and deep, complex flavors spreading through my mouth reminded me anew that I was in a distant foreign land.
In the afternoon, I visited La Merced Church, which could be called the symbol of the city. Built in 1767, this church’s exterior walls are decorated with vibrant yellow and white ornamentations, telling the story of baroque elegance. Stepping inside, the gold-leafed altar quietly glowed in the dim space. Seeing local people fervently offering prayers, I felt how deeply faith was rooted in daily life.
Leaving the church, I strolled along cobblestone streets lined with colonial buildings. Every structure was one or two stories high, built low as earthquake precaution. The thick stone walls were designed around central courtyards where tropical flowers bloomed magnificently. Purple and pink bougainvillea created vivid contrasts against white walls.
As evening approached, I headed to Plaza de Armas. Once the site of an armory during colonial times, it now bustles as a souvenir market. Maya women displayed hand-woven textiles, colorful huipiles, and wooden folk crafts. I was mesmerized by the warmth of handiwork and the beauty of geometric patterns in each piece.
As the sun began to set, the entire city was bathed in orange twilight. Walking along cobblestone streets toward my lodging, I stopped at a small café to taste Guatemalan coffee. The coffee beans nurtured in this land’s volcanic soil had a distinctive deep aroma and mellow acidity, and with each sip, I could feel the bounty of this earth.
That night, I looked up at the star-filled sky from my inn’s courtyard, reflecting on the day. Thanks to the clear highland air, the stars felt close enough to touch. This first night in a small city embraced by volcanoes taught me that even in silence, the warm lives of people continued to breathe.
Day 2: Following the Gifts of Volcanoes and Maya Memories
I awoke at 6 AM while darkness still lingered. Looking out the window, I could see the first light of dawn touching the summit of Volcán de Agua. I had risen early to participate in a coffee plantation tour.
Breakfast in the inn’s courtyard featured traditional Guatemalan morning fare: frijoles (stewed beans), quesadillas (tortillas with cheese), plátanos fritos (fried plantains), and fried eggs. Simple yet each dish lived with natural flavors, gently permeating my body.
At 8 AM, I boarded the pickup bus heading to a coffee plantation outside Antigua. Through the window, I could see coffee trees spreading across terraced slopes. Antigua coffee, cultivated at elevations between 1,200 and 1,800 meters, is known as one of the world’s finest grades.
Arriving at Finca La Asunción plantation, the third-generation owner Don Carlos welcomed me warmly. His grandfather had immigrated from Spain to start this plantation in the 1920s. “Coffee isn’t just a crop,” he said proudly, “it’s the history of this land and our family itself.”
Walking through the plantation, I observed the process from coffee cherry harvesting to roasting. The work of hand-picking each perfectly ripened red coffee cherry was more delicate and time-consuming than I had imagined. The local women helping with the harvest wore colorful traditional dress and worked with practiced efficiency. Their smiles and occasional humming created a festival-like atmosphere despite the labor involved.
Lunch was at the plantation cafeteria, sharing the same menu as the coffee workers. Tortillas, black bean soup, chicken stew, and fresh-picked avocado. Though simple, each dish carried the loving taste of home. During the meal, María, one of the workers, told ancient stories in the Maya K’iche’ language. Tales of volcano gods and coffee spirits, translated into Spanish, held a magical charm as if casting spells.
After leaving the plantation in the afternoon, we stopped at the village of San Antonio Aguas Calientes on the way back to the city. This village is famous for hand-woven textiles, where Maya women create fabrics using traditional techniques. At a small cooperative workshop in the village center, women used traditional backstrap looms to weave colorful huipiles and tablecloths.
Rosa, the workshop supervisor, explained the weaving techniques in detail. “Each pattern has meaning,” she explained. Birds represent freedom, zigzag patterns represent mountains, and diamond shapes represent fertility. These techniques and knowledge, passed from mother to daughter through generations, are precious cultural heritage conveying Maya civilization’s memory to the present.
Returning to Antigua in the evening, I climbed Cerro de la Cruz to watch the sunset. From this small hill overlooking the city, I could see the cobblestone streets and the magnificent view of three surrounding volcanoes. The scene of sunset disappearing behind Volcán Acatenango was truly painterly in its beauty. The sky’s changing colors from orange to purple gently illuminated ancient church bell towers and stone building rooftops.
At that moment, I could see smoke rising from distant Volcán de Fuego. It was a moment when I truly felt the presence of a “living volcano.” I was reminded again that the people of this city constantly live alongside nature’s power.
For dinner, I ate at La Fonda de la Calle, an established restaurant. Founded in 1976, this place is known as a famous restaurant for Guatemalan cuisine. Caldos de gallina (chicken soup), chiles rellenos (stuffed peppers), and mole de plátano (banana mole sauce) - each dish was a masterpiece that modernly arranged Guatemala’s traditional flavors.
After dinner, I walked through nighttime Antigua. The cobblestone streets, illuminated by streetlights, showed a different expression than during the day. The sound of church bells announcing 9 o’clock echoed through the silence, and I imagined how this city had welcomed night in the same way for hundreds of years. Before returning to my inn, I enjoyed a single glass of Ron Zacapa (Guatemala’s premium rum) at a small bar, falling asleep with gratitude for such a fulfilling day.
Day 3: Morning of Farewell and Memories Etched in Heart
The last morning began with a special experience. Rising at 5:30 AM while the city still slept, I headed to a viewpoint even higher than Cerro de la Cruz to watch sunrise over Volcán de Agua. José, a local guide, led the way.
Climbing about 30 minutes in darkness, relying on flashlight beams, we finally reached the viewpoint. From there, Antigua looked like a jewelry box with only scattered streetlights still glowing. As the eastern sky gradually brightened, the sun emerged from Volcán de Agua’s summit.
Golden light slowly illuminated the valley, brightening stone building rooftops one by one - it was breathtakingly beautiful. I understood José’s murmur that “even seeing it every day, I never tire of it.” In this moment, I truly felt connected to this land.
After returning to the inn for breakfast, I set out for a final exploration. First, I visited the ruins of San Francisco Church and Monastery. Severely damaged in the great earthquake of 1773, parts of this building now remain as ruins, telling of human powerlessness before nature’s force. Yet simultaneously, it also conveyed the strength of people who continued to love this land and rebuild the city.
The beauty of stone pillars remaining in the monastery courtyard, intertwined with ivy, embodied what might be called the aesthetics of ruins. With few tourists, I could meditate in the silence.
Next, I visited La Antigua Galería de Arte, which displays works by contemporary Guatemalan painters. Particularly impressive were works by Maya painter Juan Sisay. His paintings of rural landscapes and indigenous daily life in vivid colors beautifully expressed how Guatemala’s present and tradition are seamlessly fused.
For lunch, I decided to eat among local people at the mercado (market). In a small eatery amid the market’s colorful vegetables, fruits, and spices, I had tamales (steamed corn flour dish) and atol de elote (corn porridge-like drink). At the next table, a Maya elder woman was gently teaching something to a girl who seemed to be her granddaughter. Though I couldn’t understand the words, the atmosphere of loving conversation was universal.
In the afternoon, I revisited Plaza de Armas souvenir market for final shopping. I had been interested in a hand-woven tablecloth I’d noticed two days before. Conversing in broken Spanish with the maker, Esperanza, I felt her pride and love for her handiwork. When she said “This is my heart,” beyond the language barrier, I understood the feelings put into creating something by hand.
My final dinner was at the garden restaurant of Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. This luxury hotel was converted from a 16th-century Dominican monastery, with parts of the ruins preserved intact. In the beautifully maintained garden, enjoying a Guatemalan cuisine course meal, I reflected on these three days.
Beginning with chayotes en crema (chayote cream stew) as appetizer, proceeding to robalo en salsa de pequea (sea bass with pequea fruit sauce) as the main course, and finishing with budín de plátano (banana pudding) for dessert - each dish was refined cuisine showcasing Guatemalan ingredients.
While dining, I recalled the faces of people I’d met on this journey. Don Carlos from the coffee plantation, Rosa from the textile workshop, Esperanza from the market, and José who guided the sunrise viewing. Despite their different backgrounds, each person’s deep love for this land was impressive.
Late at night, I spent my final time in the inn’s courtyard. Tomorrow morning I would depart for home via Guatemala City. These three days in this small city surrounded by volcanoes passed quickly yet were incredibly rich. The texture of cobblestones, coffee aromas, textile colors, and people’s warm smiles - these memories will surely remain in my heart for a long time.
Looking up at the night sky, I saw the same star-filled heavens as when I arrived. Yet this starry sky looked completely different to me now than three days ago. I felt as if this land’s memories and the stories of people I’d met here were embedded in each twinkling star.
Conclusion: What Was Felt Truly Despite Being Imagination
My 2-night, 3-day journey in Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala, thus came to an end.
This journey unfolded in my imagination - a fantastical voyage. I didn’t actually visit this place; it wasn’t a real experience. Yet this experience, woven from knowledge gained through literature, photographs, and videos combined with longing for travel, was mysteriously accompanied by genuine feeling.
The sensation of walking ancient city cobblestones surrounded by volcanoes, the beauty of colorful textiles woven by Maya descendants, the rich aroma of highland-grown coffee, and above all, the warmth of people living in this land. These “memories,” though imagined, are certainly etched in my heart.
Perhaps travel is not merely about moving between places, but about exploring one’s inner self through encounters with the unknown. Even in imaginary journeys without physical movement, by spreading the wings of imagination, we can visit any place on earth and touch the lives of people living there.
My longing for the land of Antigua Guatemala is something I definitely want to realize as an actual journey someday. When that time comes, how these imagined “memories” will overlap with or differ from real experience - that too will be one of travel’s great pleasures.
Carrying these travel memories that feel real despite being imaginary, I return to daily life. Yet in my heart, the scenery of an ancient city surrounded by volcanoes and the smiles of people I met there will remain vividly forever.
