Introduction: Gateway to Paradise
Baños de Agua Santa. When I first heard that name, it resonated like a line from poetry. This small town, whose name means “Baths of Holy Water,” sits quietly nestled at the foot of Ecuador’s Andes Mountains, 1,820 meters above sea level.
Blessed by the active volcano Tungurahua, this land has long been renowned for its hot springs, drawing pilgrims and those seeking healing from across South America. The stone churches that bear traces of Spanish colonial times blend seamlessly with the culture of the indigenous Kichwa people, creating a unique atmosphere. Cloud forests spread across the surrounding area, and countless waterfalls cascade down the mountainsides. It truly feels like a sanctuary created by nature itself.
Even today, Baños continues to be beloved as both a base for adventure sports and a healing hot spring destination. In the small town center, white colonial-style buildings line the streets, and walking along the cobblestone paths, the scent of sulfur mingles mysteriously with the aroma of freshly baked bread.
Day 1: Arrival Wrapped in Clouds
When the bus slowly entered town after winding through mountain roads from Quito, thin clouds were embracing the mountains. It was around 10 AM, I think. The bus terminal was small, and I felt the warm gazes of local people as I unloaded my luggage. I could feel the altitude in my body—breathing was slightly more difficult, the air was crisp and clean, and there was a somehow nostalgic mountain scent.
The walk to my hostel took about 15 minutes. As I walked along the cobblestone road, I gazed at the colorful buildings lining both sides. Red tile roofs, walls painted white and yellow, small balconies blooming with flowers of every color. Every house was well-maintained, conveying the residents’ love for their town.
After checking into the hostel, I immediately headed to the town center. The Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa came into view. Built in 1944, this church is beloved as the town’s symbol. Though modest on the outside, stepping inside revealed beautiful stained glass windows through which light streamed like blessings from heaven. Watching local people quietly offering their prayers, I felt the sacred nature of this place.
For lunch, I went to a small restaurant called “El Refugio” near the church. I ordered “locro de papas,” a traditional potato soup made by the owner, Aunt María. The gentle sweetness of potatoes combined with rich cheese and the subtle fragrance of cumin soaked into my tired body. The corn tortilla served alongside was slightly sweet and chewy. Aunt María watched me speak broken Spanish with a smile, and at the end, she even served me complimentary chamomile tea.
I decided to explore the town in the afternoon. At the Mercado Central, colorful handicrafts and fresh fruits were displayed. What particularly caught my eye were hand-woven alpaca sweaters and small ceramic figurines depicting Tungurahua volcano. All the women in the market wore colorful polleras (skirts) and had their long hair braided. Their smiles were as warm as sunshine, and even without sharing a language, our hearts connected.
As evening approached, the sky began to turn crimson. I heard that the sunset from an observation point called Casa del Árbol was beautiful, so I took a taxi there. It truly was a spectacular view. Tungurahua volcano appeared as a silhouette, and the sun setting beyond the sea of clouds painted the mountains golden. The wind was a bit cold, but I lost track of time, captivated by the beauty.
For dinner, I ate at a small family-run restaurant called “Mama Inés” near my hostel. I decided to try “cuy asado,” a traditional Ecuadorian dish of roasted guinea pig. I hesitated at first, but when I tried it, it was surprisingly mild and refined in flavor. Paired with local corn beer called “chicha,” the combination of simple yet profound tastes amazed me. The owner, Inés, enthusiastically told me about the dish’s history. She taught me that it was a traditional ingredient dating back to Inca times, a sacred food enjoyed on special occasions.
Around 8 PM, walking back to my hostel, the music echoing from various parts of town was impressive. Somewhere, the sounds of guitar and quena (Andean flute) were resonating. The starry sky was the kind you could never see in urban areas, with the Southern Cross clearly visible. From my room window, I could see the ridgeline of Tungurahua volcano, where red light occasionally flickered, making me feel anew the powerful force of this land’s earth.
Day 2: Hymns of Water and Wind
I woke around 6 AM to birdsong. Opening the window, the scent of sulfur entered my room along with the crisp air. Clouds still clung to the mountains, creating a mystical morning landscape. I had a simple breakfast at the hostel. Fresh mango, papaya, and local coffee were exceptionally delicious. Ecuadorian coffee has little acidity and a chocolate-like sweetness that paired perfectly with the refreshing mountain air.
Today’s main event was touring the Ruta de las Cascadas (Route of the Waterfalls). Around 9 AM, I set off on a rented bicycle. Along the road extending east from Baños, waterfalls of various sizes are scattered. My first stop was the suspension bridge at “Puente San Francisco.” From this bridge, you can look down into the valley and see the Pastaza River far below, flowing with white foam. The bridge swayed slightly, but that movement gave a pleasant thrill.
After cycling for about 30 minutes, I arrived at “Cascada Agoján.” This waterfall, about 60 meters high, plunges dramatically from a cliff covered in green. Water spray danced in the wind, creating rainbows that appeared and disappeared. I could descend close to the waterfall’s pool and was thoroughly bathed in negative ions. The sound of water seemed to cleanse my soul, and I spent meditative time sitting on the rocks.
For lunch, I ate “patacones con pollo” at a small eatery near the waterfall. This dish features flattened and fried plantain bananas served with chicken—simple but nourishing. The fresh maracuyá (passion fruit) juice I drank with it cooled my body, heated from exercise. The restaurant owner told me in detail about the waterfalls in this region. During the rainy season, he said, the water volume increases, creating even more spectacular scenery.
In the afternoon, I headed to “Cascada El Pailón del Diablo” (Devil’s Cauldron Waterfall). This is one of the most famous waterfalls, a magnificent 80-meter cascade. The trekking course to the waterfall was a beautiful route through cloud forest. Ferns and epiphytes grew abundantly, and occasionally colorful birds showed themselves. I even encountered hummingbirds sipping nectar from flowers. Their tiny bodies fluttering looked like they were dancing in mid-air.
Upon reaching the waterfall, I was overwhelmed by its power. The sound of water crashing against rocks was like thunder, and the spray formed mist that enveloped the surroundings. I could well understand the origin of the name “Devil’s Cauldron.” The waterfall’s pool was a deep green color, truly a sight that made me feel nature’s mystery. I spent about 30 minutes here too, captivated by nature’s power and beauty.
Returning to town in the evening, I decided to experience the hot springs. I visited a facility called “Termas de la Virgen.” These are natural hot springs bubbling up from deep underground, rich in minerals. The water temperature was about 40°C, just comfortably warm. While feeling the day’s fatigue melt away, I enjoyed the open scenery surrounded by mountains. Many local families were there too, and children’s laughter echoed around. I realized anew that hot spring culture isn’t unique to Japan.
That night, I visited a music bar called “La Casa de la Cultura” in the town center. Every evening, local musicians perform here. Tonight there was an Andean music live show. The music woven by quena, charango (small guitar), and bombo (drum) resonated deep in my heart. Particularly impressive was a song called “El Cóndor Pasa,” where the performer’s emotionally rich expression nearly brought me to tears. The close distance between audience and performers created an intimate atmosphere where I could truly enjoy the music.
While drinking beer and listening to music, I had a chance to talk with Carlos, a local young man sitting next to me. He was studying environmental science at an Ecuadorian university and was passionate about protecting this region’s ecosystem. In fluent English, he told me about the flora and fauna around Tungurahua volcano. Particularly memorable was his story about hummingbird species endemic to this region. Their existence, he said, tells the story of this area’s ecological richness.
As the night deepened, on my way back to the hostel, I looked up at the star-filled sky. The Milky Way was clearly visible in a way you could never see in urban areas. The Andean night sky was so beautiful it felt like the distance to the universe had shortened. Even after returning to my room, I reflected on the day’s experiences of nature’s power and people’s warmth.
Day 3: Hymns Echoing at Journey’s End
On my final morning, I woke a bit early to walk around town. Baños at 6 AM was wrapped in dawn’s silence. Morning dew glistened on the cobblestone roads, and the air was cold and refreshing. One bakery was open, and the aroma of fresh bread was beginning to spread through the town. I bought “pan de yuca,” a traditional local bread made with cassava. This chewy bread with subtle sweetness satisfied my morning hunger.
After breakfast, I packed my things and headed to my final destination. Today I planned to visit an observation point called “Columpio de San Martín.” Taking the cable car up the mountain for 15 minutes, I arrived at 2,500 meters above sea level. The view from here truly deserved the word “spectacular.” The entire town of Baños spread out below, and beyond it, Andean peaks rose from a sea of clouds. Tungurahua volcano was also visible up close, and the smoke occasionally rising from its summit made me feel the living earth of this land.
The observation point had a small café where I enjoyed the scenery while drinking local herbal tea. It was “guayusa,” a tea that has been drunk in the Amazon region since ancient times. It had a flavor similar to green tea but mellower, with effects that heal fatigue at high altitudes. The café owner was an Ecuadorian woman who had grown up seeing this view, and with love for her homeland, she spoke about Baños’ history and culture.
I spent the entire morning at the observation point and returned to town before noon. My final lunch was at “Restaurante El Pequeño Paraíso” near my hostel. True to its name meaning “Little Paradise,” it had a homey, warm restaurant atmosphere. I ordered “ceviche de pescado,” a fresh fish marinade dish. The fish marinated with lime, onions, and cilantro was simple yet excellent, bringing out the ingredients’ natural flavors. The cancha (roasted corn) served alongside had an enjoyable texture, allowing me to satisfyingly conclude my final meal.
In the afternoon, I visited the market again to buy souvenirs. I chose an alpaca wool scarf and a small ceramic figurine shaped like Tungurahua volcano. When I told the market lady I was returning home, she warmly said “¡Buen viaje!” (Have a good trip!). In her smile, I felt the condensed kindness of all the people I had met during these three days and two nights.
As my bus departure time approached, I visited the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa one last time. I gave thanks for the safety of these three days and prayed that I might be able to visit this land again someday. The church interior was warmly lit by afternoon light, and the light streaming through the stained glass felt like a blessing.
Walking toward the bus terminal, I turned back to see the town of Baños surrounded by mountains. White buildings, red roofs, and Tungurahua volcano visible in the distance. Though it was only three days, this landscape was etched deep in my heart. As the bus began to move, the scenery visible from the window gradually grew distant. But everything I had experienced in Baños remained vividly in my heart.
Descending the mountain road, I tried to organize what I had felt during these three days. Nature’s overwhelming beauty and power, the healing of hot springs, the warmth of local people, the flavors of traditional cuisine, the resonance of Andean music. All of these went beyond mere tourist experiences to become encounters that touched my heart deeply. What impressed me most were people’s smiles. Even when language didn’t fully connect us, there were moments when hearts could communicate, and this became the most precious memory of all.
Finally: What Was Felt Clearly Though Imagined
This journey was an imaginary voyage drawn with the help of AI. However, the three days I spent researching the real and beautiful town of Baños de Agua Santa and weaving together my imagination felt like a genuine experience in my heart.
A small hot spring town in Ecuador’s mountains. The warmth of the people living there, the magnificent nature of the Andes, the flavors of traditional cuisine, and the blessings of pure hot springs. All of these were deeply carved into my heart through words. Though I didn’t actually set foot there, the atmosphere, sounds, and even smells of that place felt genuinely real in my imagination.
Perhaps travel isn’t necessarily just about physical movement. Moving the heart, imagining encounters with new cultures and people, letting thoughts soar toward unknown experiences—this too might be one form of travel. The imaginary three days I spent in the beautifully named town of Baños de Agua Santa expanded my longing for actual travel and gave me a strong desire to someday truly visit that land.
A journey that, though imagined, felt genuinely real. This can only be born from human imagination combined with respect and love for that place.
