Introduction: An Invitation to the Ancient City Above the Gorge
Constantine. Just speaking its name aloud seemed to awaken ancient stories sleeping deep in distant memory. Located in eastern Algeria, this city is known as the “City of Bridges” - an aerial metropolis built upon the cliffs of the Rhumel Gorge. Rising some 200 meters above the Rhumel River that winds through the deep canyon below, the city spreads across limestone plateaus where over 2,000 years of history have accumulated layer upon layer.
Named after Roman Emperor Constantine I, this city once flourished as Cirta, capital of the Numidia Kingdom, passing through Roman rule and absorbing deep Islamic cultural influences to reach the present day. French colonial architecture harmonizes with traditional Islamic buildings, creating a unique atmosphere where Berber, Arab, and various ethnic cultures have melded together.
The city’s symbol is the series of arched bridges spanning the gorge. The Sidi M’Cid Bridge, built in the 19th century, has captivated many with its graceful form. The view of the bridge and city from the bottom of the gorge resembles a pavilion floating in the sky, explaining why this city is called the “aerial metropolis.”
Despite its dry Mediterranean climate, the location surrounded by gorges creates a unique microclimate, with pleasant breezes flowing through morning and evening. I had been longing to savor Constantine fully, even if only for a brief 2-night, 3-day stay.
Day 1: Gateway to the Stone City
The journey from Algiers covered about 350 kilometers, departing on an early morning flight to Constantine. Landing at Mohamed Boudiaf International Airport, I was greeted by dry air and clear blue skies. During the taxi ride to the city center, the driver Abdelkader spoke fluent French as he shared the city’s history.
“Constantine is a rare city in the world. Built atop a gorge, without bridges it would become a landlocked island. But that’s precisely what makes it beautiful.”
His words proved true as the city’s silhouette came into view, taking my breath away. The sight of white buildings clustered densely on the plateau surrounded by gorges looked like a natural fortress.
In the morning, I first checked into my accommodation, Hotel Cirta Palace. Built in the 1970s, this hotel sits in Constantine’s center and is known for rooms overlooking the gorge. Fortunately, I secured a room with views of the Rhumel Gorge. Looking down from the window at the gorge’s depths was magnificent, with the river meandering like a green ribbon far below.
After dropping off my luggage, I immediately began exploring the city. A few minutes’ walk from the hotel brought me to the Sidi M’Cid Bridge. Completed in 1912, this grand stone arch bridge stretches 164 meters long and rises 175 meters above the gorge. Standing on the bridge, I felt slightly dizzy from the gorge’s depths spreading beneath my feet. As wind caressed my cheeks, the distant mountain ridges glittered in the morning sunlight.
At the bridge’s foot, an elderly man was selling old postcards to tourists. His name was Hassan, and he had been doing business at this spot for many years.
“This bridge is our pride. French engineers designed it, but local craftsmen built it. Each stone contains the soul of this land.”
I purchased several postcards from the 1920s from Hassan. The sepia photographs showing the bridge and cityscape of that era had a profound charm that conveyed the passage of time.
In the afternoon, I wandered through the old town’s Kasbah district. Narrow cobblestone alleys wound like a maze, with traditional buildings lining both sides. The white walls with blue doors and window frames possessed the beauty common to Mediterranean coastal cities. However, here unique decorations blending Berber and Islamic cultures created an atmosphere unlike anywhere else.
I visited the Jamaa al-Kabir (Great Mosque) in the Kasbah’s center. Built in the 11th century, this mosque is one of Constantine’s oldest religious buildings. Entering the courtyard, I found beautifully geometric decorated arches, feeling the flow of prayer time in the silence. Youssef, the mosque’s caretaker, explained the building’s history.
“This mosque was built during the Hammadid dynasty. Though restored many times, it preserves the beauty of that era. The city view from the minaret is particularly spectacular.”
Though I wasn’t permitted to climb the minaret, even viewing the tower’s beauty from the courtyard was sufficiently impressive. The delicate decorations on the stone tower conveyed the essence of Islamic architecture.
Evening brought a different expression to the city. Western sun painted the white building walls golden, and the sun setting beyond the gorge colored the sky orange. At a café overlooking the Rhumel Gorge, I drank mint tea among locals while gazing at this magnificent scenery.
Karim, the café owner, was a Constantine-born man in his 50s who spoke of his deep love for this city.
“I’ve never lived anywhere but this city. In my youth, I considered working in Algiers or Paris, but seeing this scenery, I couldn’t leave. Even though I see this view daily, it looks completely different depending on the light.”
Night revealed yet another face of the city. The illuminated bridges and buildings reflecting in the gorge appeared like a jewel box. For dinner, I went to “Dar Diaf,” a traditional cuisine restaurant near the hotel. The couscous and lamb stew “tajine” had rich spice aromas, and the long-simmered meat was surprisingly tender. For dessert, I enjoyed “makroud,” a traditional sweet made with honey and nuts.
Fatima, the restaurant’s proprietress, taught me about the cuisine in detail.
“This recipe has been passed down from my grandmother to my mother, then to me. Spice combinations are each family’s secret, never written down. They must be learned by hand and tongue.”
Returning to the hotel, a starry sky spread beyond the gorge. With few city lights, the stars’ brilliance appeared particularly beautiful. Standing by the window, gazing at the gorge wrapped in silence, I felt this city’s unique flow of time.
Day 2: Melodies of Tradition and Nature
Waking early, morning mist rising from the gorge enveloped the city in mystical beauty. Taking breakfast on the hotel’s rooftop terrace, I gazed at this magical scene. The traditional Algerian breakfast of French bread with olive oil and tomatoes, plus strong coffee, was simple yet flavorful.
In the morning, I visited the Constantine National Museum, “Cirta Museum.” From ancient Roman artifacts to Islamic period artworks, the rich collection tells this region’s long history. Particularly impressive were the mosaic paintings from the ancient Numidia Kingdom period, with hunting scenes and mythological stories depicted in vibrant colors.
Amina, the museum curator and archaeology specialist, provided detailed explanations of the exhibits.
“Constantine was an important hub on trade routes connecting the Mediterranean world and Sahara Desert. That’s why various cultures intersected here, nurturing a unique civilization. This city’s history is also a history of cultural fusion.”
The museum courtyard displayed Roman-era sarcophagi and inscriptions, allowing contemplation of life over 2,000 years ago. Particularly, the tombstone inscriptions carved in ancient Latin conveyed love and respect for the deceased, revealing the universality of human emotions across time.
In the afternoon, I visited the Tiddis ruins, about 30 minutes by car from the city. These ancient Roman city ruins preserve well-maintained amphitheaters and bath remains. The ruins sit atop a small hill, offering distant views of Constantine’s cityscape.
Saeed, the ruins’ guide and local history enthusiast, spoke passionately about this land’s history.
“Tiddis flourished from the 3rd to 7th centuries. Many artifacts found here are displayed in Constantine’s museum. In this theater, people enjoyed plays nearly 2,000 years ago. Time flows quickly, but human activities remain unchanged.”
Sitting in the amphitheater seats and gazing at the stage ruins, I imagined the applause and laughter that once echoed here. The stone seats, even after long years, seemed ready to welcome audiences again.
On the return journey from the ruins, we passed through hills dotted with olive groves and almond trees. From late February to March, during almond blossom season, white petals dancing in the wind created poetic scenes. Mohamed, the driver, taught me about the region’s agriculture.
“This land has cultivated wheat, olives, and grapes since ancient times. Thanks to the Mediterranean climate, we grow high-quality agricultural products. Especially our olive oil has beautiful color and exceptional taste.”
Returning to the city in the evening, I explored the Souk el-Asr district, known as the artisan quarter. Shops dealing in traditional handicrafts lined the streets - copper goods, leather products, carpets, pottery. At a copper workshop, I could closely observe craftsmen hammering beautiful patterns.
Omar, the workshop owner from a three-generation family of copper artisans, spoke about his craft’s depths.
“This technique has been passed from father to son. It has a handmade warmth that machines cannot create. Completing one piece sometimes takes days, but I believe it’s worth it.”
I purchased a small incense burner with beautiful geometric patterns. Holding it, I felt simultaneously the metal’s coldness and the craftsman’s warmth.
For dinner, I went to “Restaurant Panorama,” bustling with locals. Their specialty “chorba,” a traditional soup of lamb, vegetables, and legumes, was nutritious and warming to the core when eaten with bread.
Hakim, a restaurant regular and retired teacher, taught me extensively about Constantine’s culture.
“This city’s cuisine reflects Berber, Arab, and Mediterranean influences. Particularly, the spice usage is unique, offering flavors unavailable elsewhere. Meals aren’t just nutrition but precious time for deepening family and friendship bonds.”
At night, I walked across Mellah Slimane Bridge, one of the bridges spanning the Rhumel Gorge. The illuminated bridge’s night view was breathtakingly beautiful, with city lights beyond the gorge blending with the starry sky. A young local couple I met on the bridge was taking pre-wedding photos, celebrating their new life’s beginning amid this beautiful scenery.
Day 3: Morning of Farewell and Eternal Memory
The final day began watching sunrise from the gorge through my hotel room window. Golden light illuminating the limestone cliffs, painting the entire city amber - this moment was truly magical. I stood by the window for a while, trying to etch this scene into my heart.
Before checkout, I made a final visit to Ahmed Bey Palace for one last walk. Built in the mid-19th century, this palace served as the residence of Ahmed Bey, Constantine’s last governor. Now open as a museum, it offers glimpses into aristocratic life of that era.
The palace interior features unique decoration blending Islamic and European architecture. Particularly, the wooden decorations on ceilings demonstrate craftsmen’s high skill levels. The courtyard fountain was designed to provide coolness in the dry climate, its water sounds pleasantly resonating.
Layla, the palace guide and architectural history specialist, explained the building’s cultural significance.
“This palace exemplifies the beautiful harmony of Eastern and Western architectural styles. Ahmed Bey held interest in European culture while cherishing Islamic traditions. This building symbolizes that stance.”
From the palace rooftop terrace, I could overlook Constantine’s entire cityscape. The unique topography surrounded by gorges, historically layered building clusters, and distant mountain silhouettes - this scenery was deeply etched as the culmination of my three-day journey.
Before heading to the airport, I had my final meal at “Café de France.” Operating since the early 1900s, this café is known as a gathering place for Constantine’s intellectuals. Walls display photographs of famous poets, writers, and politicians, conveying this city’s cultural history.
Bashir, the café master still active in his eighties, is beloved by many regular customers.
“My grandfather started this café. During the independence movement, many intellectuals debated here. Students and artists still gather today. A café isn’t just a place serving drinks but a place nurturing culture.”
Drinking coffee while listening to Bashir’s stories, I could truly feel this city’s intellectual atmosphere. Among the old photographs on walls were images of Frantz Fanon and other renowned thinkers, showing how this small café witnessed history.
In the taxi to the airport, driver Mustapha spoke about Constantine’s future.
“This city is gaining attention as a tourist destination, but we’re carefully developing while preserving traditions. We want visitors to feel not just beautiful scenery but this city’s soul.”
During airport waiting time, I reflected on these three days. Constantine wasn’t merely a tourist destination but a city with living history and culture. Built atop nature’s fortress of gorges, it maintains unique identity while accepting external influences.
The warmth of people I met, traditional cuisine flavors, handicraft beauty, and above all, the magnificent scenery overlooking the gorge - all these elements form this city’s charm.
Constantine viewed from the airplane window appeared beautiful like a jewel carved into the earth, its image etched deep in my heart. The bridges spanning the gorge exist not merely as passages connecting the city to the outside world but as symbolic links between past and present, tradition and innovation, remaining forever in memory.
Conclusion: What Felt Real Despite Being Imaginary
This journey was an imaginary trip never actually taken. However, the image of Constantine drawn through literature, footage, and imagination is based on beautiful reality that truly exists.
The bridges spanning gorges, stone cityscapes, traditional cuisine, craftsmen’s skills, and people’s warmth - all these represent this city’s true nature. The words and expressions of people met in imagination, flavors of cuisine tasted, and beauty of scenery viewed were products of imagination yet also attempts to express this city’s essence.
Travel isn’t simply moving between places. It’s also an opportunity to encounter new cultures, meet different values, and reflect on oneself. Even imaginary journeys can yield insights and emotions that become imperishable treasures.
Whenever I hear the name Constantine, the beauty of bridges spanning gorges, cityscapes wrapped in morning mist, and smiles of people encountered will surely resurface. These remain forever etched in my heart as travel memories that, though imaginary, feel genuinely real.
When the day comes to actually visit this city, I hope this imaginary journey will overlap with reality, creating even richer experiences. Travel’s true value may lie not in reaching destinations but in the feelings of heading there and the memories after returning.
