Introduction
When I first heard the name Dundee, it conjured images of a town from a fairy tale. Located on Scotland’s east coast at the mouth of the River Tay, this city was once known as the city of “Jute, Jam, and Journalism.” It flourished through the jute industry, gained fame as the birthplace of marmalade, and nurtured culture through DC Thomson’s newspaper and magazine empire.
With a population of around 150,000, this is not a large city by any measure. Yet there’s something uniquely captivating about the landscape woven together by the salty breeze carried by North Sea winds, the green expanse of the Law Hill overlooking the city, and the gentle flow of the River Tay—a charm distinct from other Scottish cities. In recent years, Dundee has found new life as a hub for the gaming industry and digital technology, where tradition and innovation coexist in quiet harmony.
The opening of V&A Dundee in 2018 brought renewed attention to this city. There’s also the local connection to Kenneth Grahame, who wrote “The Wind in the Willows” while living in this region, adding to the literary and artistic atmosphere that permeates the area. It was this Dundee that I decided to visit at the beginning of autumn.
Day 1: Arrival by the River Tay
The train journey from Edinburgh took about an hour and a half. As I gazed out at the Scottish countryside rolling past the window, the broad estuary of the River Tay came into view. Stepping off at Dundee station, I was greeted by the sea breeze caressing my cheek. The late September air was crisp, perfect for the light sweater I’d brought along.
I walked from the station toward the city center. Along the High Street, I was struck by the fascinating juxtaposition of old stone buildings and modern glass-fronted structures—a testament to the city’s layered history.
The boutique hotel where I checked in overlooked the River Tay. From my room’s window, I could see across the river to the rolling hills of Fife. After settling in and catching my breath, it was already lunchtime.
I decided to begin the afternoon with a walk around the city. My first stop was V&A Dundee, which opened in 2018. Designed by Kengo Kuma, the building sits ship-like along the riverbank with a distinctive presence that’s unmistakable even from a distance. Inside, I found a fascinating range of exhibits spanning from Scottish design history to contemporary creative endeavors. What particularly caught my attention was the collection of works by Dundee-born designers. There was even an exhibit about Rockstar North, creators of the Grand Theft Auto series, which really brought home how important this city is as a gaming industry hub.
Leaving the museum, I watched the evening light shimmer on the River Tay’s surface. Walking along the riverside path, I looked up toward Dundee Law Hill. This hill, which serves as the city’s symbol, stands at just 174 meters—not particularly tall, but it has a gentle, watchful presence over the entire city.
For dinner, I went to The Speedwell Bar, recommended by a local. This pub has been operating since 1903 and features distinctive ship-like interior décor. Here I tried haggis for the first time. Despite my initial hesitation about the traditional Scottish dish made with sheep’s offal, it was surprisingly palatable with its blend of spices. I enjoyed it alongside a local beer called Belhaven Best.
An elderly gentleman sitting next to me began telling me about Dundee’s history. “The jute factory smokestacks used to fill this city’s sky,” he said. “Young people today might not know, but this city once sent jute all over the world.” Listening to his stories, I found myself layering the city’s past over its present appearance.
Walking back to the hotel that night, I could see the beautifully illuminated Tay Road Bridge. Completed in 1966, this bridge serves as a vital transportation link between Dundee and Fife, but floating in the darkness, it possessed a beauty that transcended mere functionality.
Sitting by the window in my room, I reflected on the day. Though this was my first visit to the city, I felt an inexplicable sense of familiarity. Perhaps it came from the warmth of the people, or maybe from some embracing quality the city itself possessed. With such thoughts drifting through my mind, I fell asleep to the gentle sound of the River Tay’s waves.
Day 2: Embraced by Nature and History
I woke at half past six. Outside my window, a thin mist hung over the River Tay—that characteristic Scottish morning scene, both ethereal and magical. While having breakfast in the hotel dining room, I confirmed the day’s plans: exploring Dundee’s historic district in the morning, then venturing out to Glamis Castle in the afternoon.
After breakfast, I headed to the city center. My first stop was Dundee Cathedral (St. Paul’s Cathedral), a Gothic Revival building constructed in 1853 that creates a beautiful silhouette against the city skyline. Inside, colorful stained glass windows caught the morning light and glowed brilliantly. In the quiet sanctuary, I was moved by the sight of local people offering their prayers.
Leaving the cathedral, I next visited the ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral. Built in the 15th century, only portions of the walls remain today, but their dignified presence hints at the grandeur of bygone days. Walking through the graveyard surrounding the ruins, I noticed tombstones carved with ancient Scottish inscriptions. It was a moment that made me feel the weight of passing time.
My final morning stop was the Dundee Contemporary Arts center. The exhibitions focused on works by local contemporary artists, giving me a real sense of the pulse of Scotland’s modern art scene. I was particularly struck by paintings that used local landscapes as their motif.
For lunch, I had a Scottish salmon sandwich at the museum café. The fresh salmon melted in my mouth, paired beautifully with tea. Through the café windows, I could see the distinctive architecture of V&A Dundee—dining with a view of contemporary Dundee’s most iconic landmark.
In the afternoon, I took a taxi to Glamis Castle, about 30 minutes from Dundee. This castle is also known as the setting of Shakespeare’s “Macbeth” and remains the residence of the Earl of Strathmore, with deep connections to the British Royal Family.
Arriving at the castle, I was overwhelmed by its magnificence. Dating back to the 14th century, it’s considered a masterpiece of Scottish Baronial architecture. I joined a guided tour through the castle interior, marveling at the painting collections, beautiful tapestries, and historical traces left in each room. What impressed me most was the room where the Queen Mother (mother of Queen Elizabeth II) spent her childhood—preserved exactly as it was during her time there.
The castle gardens were equally spectacular. The design combined Italian formal gardens with English garden styles, with seasonal flowers beautifully arranged throughout. Being late September, autumn flowers were beginning to bloom, giving the entire garden a serene, quiet beauty.
On the drive back from Glamis Castle, I gazed out at the Scottish countryside. Rolling hills dotted with farms, pastures divided by stone walls, and mountains visible in the distance. Traveling through this landscape, I could understand why Scotland has inspired so many poets and writers throughout history.
Returning to Dundee in the evening, I decided to climb Law Hill. This hill rising to the northwest of the city serves as a beloved recreation area for locals. As I climbed the slope, the view gradually opened up. Reaching the summit, I could see all of Dundee, the River Tay, and the distant sea beyond.
As the sun set and painted the western sky, the city’s lights began to twinkle one by one. The distinctive silhouette of V&A Dundee, the beautiful arch of the Tay Road Bridge, and the city lights reflected on the river’s surface—from here, Dundee looked as beautiful as a jewelry box.
For dinner, I went to The Playwright, a restaurant with a local reputation for modern Scottish cuisine featuring fresh seafood and local ingredients. I ordered Angus beef steak and was amazed by the tender, flavorful meat. For dessert, I had the famous local Dundee cake—a traditional Scottish cake made with almonds and dried fruit, with Dundee as its birthplace.
After dinner, walking through the city, I was drawn by the sound of traditional music coming from a pub. Inside, local musicians were playing fiddles and accordions. The beautiful melodies of Scottish folk songs filled the room, and customers naturally began clapping along. Even without sharing a common language, I felt enveloped by the warm atmosphere created by the music and could truly sense the richness of this city’s culture.
Before returning to the hotel, I walked once more along the banks of the River Tay. The river was quiet at night, with lights from the opposite shore gently swaying on the water’s surface. In contrast to the daytime bustle, nighttime Dundee was wrapped in a peaceful, contemplative atmosphere.
Day 3: Morning Farewells and New Discoveries
On my final morning, I decided to wake up a bit early and take a walk around the hotel area. Dundee at 7 AM was still wrapped in the quietness of just awakening. Walking along the riverside path, I passed joggers and dog walkers, all offering gentle nods of acknowledgment—a touching gesture that left an impression.
After breakfast and before checkout time, I decided to visit places I hadn’t yet seen. I headed to Sensation, Dundee’s science center. This hands-on science museum offers enjoyment for children and adults alike, with exhibits centered around the five senses where you can actually touch and experience while learning about science. Being a weekday morning, I encountered what appeared to be a school trip group of children. Hearing their joyful voices, I felt a sense of hope for this city’s future.
Leaving the science center, I decided to visit the Dundee Frigate Unicorn as my final stop. This is a Royal Navy frigate built in 1824, now preserved as a museum ship. Going inside, I could glimpse what naval life was like in the 19th century. The hardships endured by sailors living in such cramped quarters were palpable.
Walking near the harbor, I discovered a local fish market. Fishermen who had finished their morning procurement were chatting over coffee. The mingled scents of fresh fish and sea air created that distinctive harbor town atmosphere. One fisherman struck up a conversation and told me about the morning’s catch. “We got good fish today,” he said with pride, and I could sense the dignity of people who live alongside the sea.
For lunch, I went to Clarks Bakery, a small café beloved by locals. Established in 1864, this long-standing shop serves traditional Scottish baked goods. Here I tasted Dundee cake again—different from what I’d had at the restaurant the previous night, this version had a more rustic, homey flavor. The owner, a woman, told me about the cake’s history. “We still make it using the same recipe as always,” she said, and I felt the weight of preserving tradition in her words.
Leaving the café, I decided to visit V&A Dundee one final time. This time I carefully observed the building’s exterior. The distinctive façade designed by Kengo Kuma is said to be inspired by Scotland’s cliff faces. The complex surface changes appearance depending on the angle and transforms its expression with the light. I could understand why this building has been positioned as a symbol of Dundee’s new era.
Looking at my watch, it was time to return to the hotel for my luggage and head to the station. While collecting my bags at the hotel lobby, I exchanged a few words with the reception staff. “Please come again,” she said, and her words resonated warmly in my heart.
On the way to the station, I turned back to look at Dundee’s cityscape once more. Unlike when I’d arrived, now it appeared to my eyes as a familiar landscape. Though it had been only three days, this city had certainly carved out a place in my heart.
While waiting for the train on the platform, I gazed toward the River Tay. The hills of Fife spreading beyond the river glowed peacefully in the afternoon light. This view is one I’ll surely never forget.
As the train slowly began to move, the city of Dundee gradually receded into the distance. The last glimpse of Dundee through the window was the distinctive building of V&A Dundee and the gentle flow of the River Tay spreading beyond it.
Conclusion
Having finished my 2-night, 3-day journey in Dundee, I find myself enveloped in a strange sensation as I write this travel account. Though this trip was certainly experienced within the realm of imagination, everything—the city’s landscapes, encounters with people, flavors of meals, sounds of music, and above all, the emotions that remain in my heart—lingers in my memory as vividly as if I had actually experienced it all.
Dundee is not a glamorous tourist destination. But perhaps that’s precisely where its charm lies. The city’s resilience, having experienced the rise and fall of industry and now beginning to walk forward again as a hub for new culture and technology. Like the flow of the River Tay, the city’s quiet but steady pulse moves forward with certainty. And above all, the warmth and pride of the people who call it home.
Though this was an imaginary journey, I feel a conviction that if I were to actually visit, I would likely have experiences much like these. Perhaps this is because the city’s genuine charm and the sincere way of life of its inhabitants lend a reality that transcends imagination.
If the day comes when I truly visit Dundee, I wonder if I’ll be able to rediscover in reality the landscapes and people I encountered in this imaginary journey. With such expectations in my heart, I close this travel account. These three special days when the small Scottish city of Dundee took firm root in my heart.
