Beyond the Witch City
When you hear “Salem, Massachusetts,” most people immediately think of the witch trials of 1692. This small harbor town became known worldwide because of that historic event. Yet Salem’s charm extends far beyond that dark chapter.
A maritime trade history stretching back to the 17th century, beautiful Victorian architecture, and quiet residential streets wrapped in blazing autumn foliage each fall—Salem reveals different faces with each season as a quintessential New England coastal town. Walking through the town center, the 18th-century buildings lining cobblestone lanes create a feeling as if time has stood still.
Facing the Atlantic Ocean, this town is always permeated with the scent of the tide. Small fishing boats still moor in the harbor, and fishermen’s voices echo in the early morning. Yet along Harbor Walk, gift shops and cafes for tourists line the waterfront, creating a unique atmosphere where history and modernity blend naturally.
The people of Salem have embraced their town’s complex history and transformed it into pride. Without forgetting the tragedy of the witch trials, they also cherish the cultural richness built by overcoming it. They possess the generosity of spirit to warmly welcome visitors to their town.
Day 1: Memories in Cobblestone
About an hour’s drive from Boston’s Logan International Airport, I arrived in Salem on an October afternoon. As the autumn sun slanted through the air, I dropped my luggage at an inn on Chestnut Street. Through the window, I could see maple trees dyed red and orange, and beyond them, a church steeple rising into the sky.
My afternoon exploration began in the town center. Walking along Federal Street, I caught my breath at the sight of buildings from the 1800s standing in rows. The contrast of brick structures with white trim was beautiful, and yellow leaves fallen on the sidewalk colored my steps like a natural carpet.
Stopping by the Peabody Essex Museum, I was overwhelmed by the exhibits telling the story of Salem’s maritime trade history. Ceramics and silk fabrics brought from China and India, spice containers—all spoke of the merchants’ adventurous spirit and business acumen of those times. Particularly impressive was a model of a merchant ship built in 1797; its exquisite craftsmanship revealed the high level of artisan skill.
As evening approached, I headed to Derby Wharf. From this pier facing the harbor, the calm waters of Salem Sound spread before me. The sunset reflecting on the water’s surface, glowing golden, was beautiful as a painting. Local people had come to the pier to enjoy the evening air, and I could hear children running about.
For dinner, I ate at a small restaurant on Washington Street. The lobster roll made with fresh local lobster had a perfect harmony of butter aroma and ocean flavor, a deliciousness that colored my first day of travel. The owner was a friendly old man who told me he’d lived in Salem for fifty years. His words stayed with me: “This town has changed, but its heart hasn’t.”
Walking home along the stone-paved road illuminated by streetlights, I felt Salem’s unique atmosphere. The glamour of a tourist destination and residents’ daily life blended naturally, yet I could feel the weight of history. My anticipation for the three days I would spend in this town quietly swelled deep in my chest.
Day 2: Forest Whispers and Ocean Songs
Morning began at a small cafe near my inn called “Louisiana Purchase.” Inside the shop, bustling with locals, the aroma of freshly baked blueberry muffins and coffee filled the air. The owner, Margaret, was a woman in her sixties born in Salem, with an impressive smile. “You’re going to Forest River Park today. Excellent choice,” she said, marking the walking route she recommended on a hand-drawn map.
In the morning, I headed to Forest River Park, which spreads north of Salem. Away from the town’s bustle, this place was truly a treasure trove of nature. Walking the trails maintained through the forest, giant oaks and maples covered the sky above, and dappled sunlight illuminated my feet. The most beautiful part was the path along a small stream, where the babbling of water gently enveloped the forest’s silence.
Along the way, I met David, a local photographer. He walked this forest every morning, recording the changes in Salem’s nature. “For the townspeople, this forest is a sanctuary for the heart. Especially in autumn, nature shows its most beautiful face,” he said while showing me photos he’d taken. There, I saw beautiful moments usually overlooked—the forest wrapped in morning mist, a spider’s web wet with dew.
In the afternoon, I visited Salem Maritime National Historic Site. This important place tells the story of American maritime trade history, with restored 18th-century merchant buildings and customs houses preserving echoes of the past. Particularly impressive was the replica of the tall ship Friendship. This three-masted vessel, a faithful reproduction of a merchant ship built in 1797, made me feel I could understand a little of what those sailors must have felt standing on its deck.
At the park’s visitor center, Elizabeth, a local historian, explained Salem’s maritime trade in detail. “Salem’s merchants were also explorers who pioneered sea routes connecting ports around the world,” she said, and I could feel deep affection and pride for her hometown in her words.
In the evening, I spent time leisurely at Winter Island Park. From this park like a small island, you could view the beautiful evening scenery of Salem Sound. Sitting on a bench watching the sea, I could see yachts returning to port in the distance. Seabirds danced in the sky, and the scent of the tide caressed my cheeks.
For dinner, I ate at “Turner’s Seafood,” a seafood restaurant near the harbor. The fish and chips made with locally caught haddock had a crispy outside and fluffy inside texture; when I squeezed lemon over it, refreshing acidity spread through my mouth. Inside the restaurant, local fishermen who had finished their day’s work were enjoying their meals, their voices bringing vitality to the space.
On the way back to my inn, I looked up at the starry sky. Stars you couldn’t see in urban areas beautifully colored Salem’s night sky. Because the town lights were moderately subdued, I could even see the Milky Way. In this moment, I felt anew that Salem was a special place where nature and human activity harmonized.
Day 3: Weaving the Threads of Memory
On my final morning, I woke earlier than usual. Outside the window, morning light slowly filtered into the still-dim sky. Thinking that this quiet time would be my last morning in Salem made me feel somewhat lonely.
I had breakfast at the same cafe as yesterday. Margaret seemed to remember me and asked in a friendly way, “Where are you going today?” When I told her I planned to visit the Salem Witch Trials Memorial and surrounding historic sites, she answered with a gentle expression: “It’s heavy history, but an important part of our town. I’m sure you’ll feel something.”
In the morning, I visited the Salem Witch Trials Memorial. This place, commemorating the 20 people who became victims in the witch trials of 1692, was enveloped in silence. Reading one by one the names of the victims carved on stone benches, I deeply felt the weight of history along with human folly and sadness. But at the same time, I could also feel a strong will to learn from this tragedy and never repeat the same mistake.
In the adjacent Old Burying Point Cemetery, old gravestones from the 17th to 18th centuries quietly told stories of time’s passage. The weathered letters carved in stone had become difficult to read, but they held the life trajectories of people from those times. In a corner of the cemetery, I noticed local high school students conducting research for a history assignment. Seeing the younger generation seriously engaging with their town’s history gave me hope.
In the afternoon, I visited the House of the Seven Gables. This 17th-century building, the setting for Nathaniel Hawthorne’s novel, is also a symbol of Salem’s literary heritage. Walking through the building, the dark corridors and steep stairs helped me imagine what life was like then. Particularly impressive was the secret staircase, which was said to have been used to hide alcohol during Prohibition—I felt the fascination of history in that story.
In the garden, seasonal flowers bloomed beautifully, creating brightness in contrast to the building’s heaviness. The guide, Jennifer, explained not only the building’s history but also Hawthorne’s literature in detail. Her words stayed with me: “Hawthorne loved both the light and shadow of Salem.”
In the evening, for my final walk, I strolled slowly along Chestnut Street. This street, lined with beautiful Federal-style mansions built in the early 19th century, is considered one of America’s most beautiful streets. The red brick walls and white columns illuminated by the setting sun created an elegant and calm atmosphere. Passing in front of a mansion with a well-maintained garden, I saw a resident doing yard work and exchanged greetings. Having lived in the town for many years, he said proudly, “Salem is a small town, but it’s a special place that people from all over the world visit.”
My final dinner was at “Lyceum Bar & Grill,” an old-established restaurant on Federal Street. Housed in a building dating from the 1830s, the interior retains decorations reminiscent of that era. The steak made with local beef was tender and flavorful, a special dish coloring my last night in Salem.
Leaving the restaurant, there was Salem’s nighttime expression illuminated by streetlights. Cobblestone roads, shadows of historic buildings, and time flowing peacefully—the scenery, people, and my own emotions encountered over these three days were quietly organizing themselves in my heart. Salem was a special place filled with rich culture built by overcoming the weight of history, and the warmth of its people.
What Felt Real Though Imagined
My 2-night, 3-day journey in Salem became a memory that surely remains in my heart, despite being a fictitious experience. The complex history this town holds and the attitude of people who continue walking forward while accepting it left a deep impression that transcends the boundary between reality and imagination.
Cultural richness built by learning from and overcoming the tragic history of the witch trials. Pride as a harbor town that prospered through maritime trade. And beautiful scenery where nature and human activity harmonize. All of these form the charm of Salem.
The people I met—Margaret at the cafe, David the forest photographer, Elizabeth the historian, and many residents whose names I never knew—each held affection and pride for their town. Interactions with them made the travel memories richer and warmer.
Food memories also remain vivid. Fresh seafood, freshly baked muffins, dishes using local ingredients—these weren’t merely food but important elements expressing that land’s culture and people’s lives.
The beauty of nature is unforgettable. The tranquil forest of Forest River Park, the calm waters of Salem Sound, and the starry sky. These landscapes gave me quiet time away from urban bustle.
Though this journey was imaginary, by touching Salem’s history, culture, nature, and the hearts of its people, I gained a sensation as if I had actually been there. Sometimes imagination supplemented reality, sometimes reality stimulated imagination, and both fused into a special experience.
A journey that felt surely real despite being imagined—it has become a treasure-like memory that will remain in my heart forever, continuing to shine quietly within me. The charm Salem holds and the peaceful time spent there exist surely, transcending the boundary between reality and imagination.
