Introduction
The port town of Sur stretches along the blue horizon of the Arabian Sea. Located on Oman’s eastern coast, this ancient town continues to quietly tell the story of its maritime trading heritage. Traditional dhow boat-building techniques are still passed down through generations, and at night, sea turtles come ashore to lay their eggs on the beaches. I had long dreamed of visiting this place where nature and culture exist in perfect harmony.
Sur appears about two and a half hours by car from the capital Muscat, emerging along the coastline after passing through the inland mountainous regions. Though this compact town has a population of around 70,000, the weight of its history is immeasurable. From the 15th to 19th centuries, it flourished as a crucial hub for maritime trade across the Indian Ocean, particularly renowned for building traditional wooden vessels called dhows. Even today, you can witness these traditional techniques at the Sur Maritime Museum and dhow shipyards.
About 20 kilometers from Sur lies Ras al Jinz, the easternmost cape of the Arabian Peninsula, known as an important nesting site for the endangered green sea turtle. During nesting season from June to September, many researchers and tourists visit to witness this mystical spectacle.
Day 1: First Encounter with an Ancient Port
The taxi I boarded at 6 AM in Muscat continued winding through the foothills of the Jebel al Akhdar mountain range. Outside the window spread reddish earth dotted with date palms - the characteristic austere beauty of Oman’s interior. I sat quietly in the car, absorbed by the landscape. Eventually, as we emerged from the mountainous region, the view suddenly opened up, revealing the blue shimmer of the Arabian Sea in the distance. At 9:30 AM, I finally arrived in the town of Sur.
My accommodation, the Sur Plaza Hotel, was a white building located in the town center. After checking in at the front desk, I was shown to a sea-facing room on the third floor. Stepping onto the balcony, I could see all of Sur Bay spread before me. In the quiet harbor, several dhows with white hulls were moored, and beyond them, I could see the buildings of the traditional dhow shipyard. After freshening up briefly in my room, I decided to explore the town center first.
The morning sun was still gentle, and the sea breeze felt pleasant. I headed to Sur Souq, about a five-minute walk from the hotel. Unlike the markets commonly seen in other Arab countries, this one was compact but well-stocked. At the spice shop, the aromas of cardamom, cinnamon, and saffron tickled my nose. The shopkeeper, Abdullah, enthusiastically explained about frankincense, a specialty of Oman, in broken English. “This is the finest quality. Even kings used this long ago,” he said with evident pride, his expression leaving a lasting impression on me.
For lunch, I ate at a local restaurant near the souq called “Matbak al Bahar.” The menu was only in Arabic, but the owner called his English-speaking son to recommend typical Omani dishes. I ordered makbous, a rice dish with lamb and vegetables, and hareem, a soup-like dish of stewed wheat and meat. The makbous was completely different from Japanese seasoned rice - complex spice aromas filled my mouth while the lamb’s umami slowly permeated through. The hareem was surprisingly creamy, with the simple sweetness of wheat and the deep richness of meat harmonizing exquisitely.
In the afternoon, I visited the dhow shipyard, Sur’s iconic symbol. Located on the north shore of Sur Bay, this shipyard has been building dhow boats using unchanged methods for hundreds of years. Entering the workshop, I heard the sounds of wood being carved and hammers striking nails. One of the craftsmen, Said, a man in his late fifties, stopped his work to speak with me. “I learned this technique from my father, and he learned it from his father,” he said, his hands hardened by years of labor, yet his gesture when touching the wood was incredibly gentle.
The completed dhows drew beautiful curves, with colorful decorations adorning their prows. “Fishermen take these boats out to the Indian Ocean. Long ago, they were used for trade as far as India and Africa,” Said explained. Gazing at these dhows where tradition and practicality merged beautifully, I was reminded again that this small port town was an important part of the maritime nation of Oman.
As evening approached, the harbor’s atmosphere began to change. Fishermen returned from their day’s catch, filling the port with activity. Small boats loaded with fresh fish arrived one after another, and lively voices echoed through the fish market. The sight of the sea’s bounty from the Arabian Sea - tuna, sea bream, shrimp, and squid - was spectacular.
For dinner, I enjoyed a course of Omani cuisine at the hotel restaurant. The appetizers included hummus, tabbouleh, and omtzami, a fish paste unique to Oman. For the main dish, I chose mashwi, a charcoal-grilled fish dish. The fish from the clam family, caught that morning, highlighted the ingredient’s natural flavor through simple preparation. For dessert, I had muhallabia, a traditional pudding-like sweet made with rose water and pistachios. The elegant sweetness and rose fragrance spread through my mouth, gently soothing the day’s fatigue.
Returning to my room and stepping onto the balcony, I saw moonlight reflecting and sparkling on Sur Bay. The silhouettes of the dhows moored in the harbor were beautiful, and my heart found deep peace in the quiet nighttime port town scene. From the very first day, I had touched the profound charm of the town called Sur, and anticipation for tomorrow made my heart race.
Day 2: Mysteries of Sea and Dunes
I woke at 5 AM. Wanting to see the sunrise, I left the hotel early and headed for a small hill on the south shore of Sur Bay. Walking through the morning mist, the eastern horizon began to brighten faintly. Soon a crimson sun rose from the Arabian Sea, painting the sea surface golden. The dhows anchored in the harbor were also illuminated by the morning light, creating a scene of painting-like beauty. As I stood mesmerized by this sight, several locals taking their morning walks passed by. Everyone greeted me with smiles, and I felt again the warmth of this town’s people.
After returning to the hotel for breakfast, I departed for the day’s main event - a trip to Ras al Jinz. The taxi arranged by the hotel front desk took about 30 minutes. Along the way, small sand dunes dotted the inland side while mangrove forests spread along the sea side. The driver, Khalid, told me, “Many birds live in these mangroves. Flamingos come here too.”
Upon arriving at the Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve, I first registered at the visitor center. This is a government-managed nature reserve where turtle protection and research are conducted. My guide was Fatima, a young researcher studying marine biology. “Green sea turtles lay eggs at night, so during the day we can find eggs buried in the sand,” she explained.
The morning began with a walk through the reserve. Standing on the cape at the easternmost point of the Arabian Peninsula, I felt surrounded by the sea in all 360 degrees. Beyond this point, the Indian Ocean stretched endlessly. A small lighthouse stood at the cape’s tip, with seabirds resting on the surrounding rocks. The wind was strong, but standing within it gave me the strange sensation of being at the edge of the earth.
Lunch was simple Arab cuisine at the reserve’s restaurant. Fresh grilled fish, salad, and khubz, traditional Omani bread, were delicious. During the meal, Fatima told me, “Tonight is close to a full moon, so there’s a high probability that sea turtles will come to lay eggs.” I immediately decided to join the night tour.
In the afternoon, I explored the dune area south of the reserve. Here, small but beautiful sand dunes stretched in succession, their surfaces glittering in the intense sunlight. Taking off my shoes to walk on the dunes barefoot, I found the surface hot but discovered cool sand when I dug slightly. From the top of the dunes, I could see the blue Arabian Sea on one side and endless waves of sand on the other. This contrast was so beautiful that I was momentarily speechless.
While spending time in the dunes, the sun began to set, and the sand’s color changed from golden to orange, then to deep red. Wind lifted the sand, creating fantastical patterns. Looking back, I noticed only my footprints remained on the dunes. In this vast nature, I deeply felt both my own smallness and the preciousness of this moment.
For dinner, I left the reserve and ate in a nearby fishing village. About 10 minutes by taxi brought me to a small village where a fisherman’s family ran a guesthouse-like establishment. They served a curry-like dish of fish caught that day, cooked with coconut milk and spices. The spiciness contained sweetness, and the fish’s umami perfectly matched the spice aromas. Eaten with the accompanying basmati rice, exotic flavors filled my mouth.
At 8 PM, it was finally time for the turtle watching tour. Guided by Fatima, we quietly walked along the beach carrying flashlights. “Sea turtles dislike light, so we can only use weak light filtered through red filters,” she explained. After walking for about 30 minutes, we found large tracks in the sand. “These are the tracks of a sea turtle,” Fatima pointed out.
Following these tracks, we found a green sea turtle in the middle of laying eggs behind a sand dune. The female turtle, about one meter long, was desperately digging with her rear flippers and depositing eggs there. Witnessing this sacred moment, I was deeply moved by nature’s mystery and the power of life. After finishing laying eggs, the turtle covered them with sand to hide them, then slowly walked back toward the sea. Watching her retreating figure, I felt the sanctity of this cycle that had continued for hundreds, even thousands of years.
I returned to the hotel past midnight. Standing on the room’s balcony, I reflected on the day. From the morning sunrise to the sunset in the dunes and the nighttime turtle watching, I had fully experienced the multifaceted charm of this place called Sur. Enveloped by the night breeze from the Arabian Sea, I felt renewed gratitude for the power and beauty of nature that this land possessed.
Day 3: A Farewell Morning Etched in Memory
On my final morning, I woke a bit later than usual at 7 AM. I had to depart for Muscat that afternoon. Though my stay was brief, I already felt attached to the town of Sur. After breakfast, I decided to walk through the town one more time.
In the morning, I visited the Sur Maritime Museum, which I hadn’t yet seen. This museum displays detailed exhibits about Sur’s maritime trading history and dhow shipbuilding techniques. Upon entering, I was amazed by a massive dhow model with its intricate construction. Display panels provided detailed explanations of Sur’s golden age from the 15th to 19th centuries. During that time, many dhows sailed from this small port town to India, the East African coast, and Persian Gulf countries.
Particularly interesting was the display of navigation tools used by sailors. I saw compasses from the era when navigation relied on constellations, handmade sea charts, and daily items used aboard ships. Looking at these artifacts, I could visualize the maritime voyages of that time, incomparably more difficult than today. A museum curator explained, “Sur’s sailors were skilled at reading seasonal winds. For them, the sea wasn’t something to fear but part of their daily life.”
From the museum’s second floor, I could overlook Sur Bay and the dhow shipyard. At the shipyard I had visited yesterday, craftsmen continued their work silently today. Watching this unchanging scene, time seemed to flow slowly.
For lunch, I decided to eat again at Matbak al Bahar, which I had visited on my first day. The owner remembered my face and said, “Today I’ll make you a special dish.” What came out was shuwa, a traditional Omani dish. This involves marinating lamb with spices, wrapping it in banana leaves, and steam-roasting it underground overnight. The meat was surprisingly tender, deeply infused with spice aromas. “This is a dish we only make on special occasions,” the owner said proudly. I was deeply moved by this thoughtfulness and felt again the warmth of this town’s people.
In the afternoon, after packing and checking out of the hotel, I decided to take one last walk around Sur Bay. At the harbor, fishermen were preparing for their afternoon fishing. I spoke with an elderly fisherman repairing nets, who asked, “Where are you from?” When I answered that I came from Japan, he smiled and said, “Japan is a distant country. But we’re connected by the sea.” Those words resonated deeply in my heart.
Walking along the south shore of Sur Bay, I saw small children playing in the sea. They were friendly and spoke to me in broken English. One boy picked up a seashell and gave it to me. “This is a gift from Sur’s sea,” he said as he handed it over. The shell had beautiful spiral patterns. I decided to treasure it as a memento of my journey.
At 3 PM, my taxi arrived. I bid farewell to the hotel staff and the people I had met over these few days, then left Sur. As the car departed from the town, I looked back at Sur Bay. The beautiful dhows still floated there unchanged, and the craftsmen’s hammer sounds could be faintly heard.
During the return journey, I had various conversations with the taxi driver. He was also from Sur and told me, “This town is small, but people with big hearts live here.” Outside the window, the same reddish earth and date palm landscape continued as when I arrived, but now they appeared as farewell scenery.
At 6:30 PM, I arrived at Muscat International Airport. Reflecting on my three days in Sur at the airport, despite the brief stay, I felt deeply attached to this land. The dhow shipbuilding techniques, turtle egg-laying, beautiful sand dunes and seascapes, and above all, encounters with warm people - all of these made Sur a special place.
As boarding time approached, I gazed once more at Oman’s land. The time spent in this small port town at the eastern edge of this country would surely become an unforgettable memory for life. Clutching the seashell, I vowed in my heart to visit Sur again someday.
Conclusion
This journey unfolded only in my imagination - a fantastical trip. However, the charm of the town called Sur, Oman’s culture, the beauty of the Arabian Sea, and the warmth of its people felt increasingly real the more I researched. By expanding my imagination while learning about actual places, cultures, and traditions, I was able to experience what felt like truly being there.
The sounds of dhow shipbuilding, spice aromas, sea breezes from the Arabian Sea, the mystical scene of turtle egg-laying, the beauty of sunsets over sand dunes - all of these were genuinely experienced in my heart and, though imaginary, felt as real as if they had actually happened.
Travel is not necessarily just physical movement. With heart and imagination alone, we can go anywhere. And that imaginary journey can enrich our hearts just as much as real travel, as I came to realize anew through this fantastical voyage.
