A Hidden Gem on the Adriatic Coast
Located at Montenegro’s southern tip, Ulcinj stands as one of the most captivating yet undiscovered treasures along the Adriatic coastline. This small seaside town of roughly 10,000 inhabitants holds the unique distinction of being one of the few places in the Balkans where Muslims form the majority, a legacy of five centuries under Ottoman rule.
The town’s heart is dominated by a medieval fortress that commands sweeping views of the sea, while below it, a labyrinthine old town spreads across stone-paved streets. Slender minarets pierce the sky, and the beautiful call to prayer flows across the entire town each morning and evening. Meanwhile, pristine beaches stretch toward the Albanian border, their crystal-clear waters basking under the warm Mediterranean sun in an atmosphere of timeless tranquility.
Ulcinj’s allure lies in its distinctive blend of Ottoman architecture, breathtaking Adriatic vistas, and the remarkable atmosphere created by its cultural diversity. Here, Serbian Orthodox churches, Catholic chapels, and Islamic mosques stand within walking distance of each other, allowing visitors to experience the fragrances of different cultures simultaneously. The town’s cuisine, where fresh seafood meets traditional Balkan flavors, offers another uniquely local experience that defines this special place.
Day 1: Footsteps on Cobblestones and the Sea Breeze Welcome
After a two-hour bus journey from Podgorica, I arrived in Ulcinj just past ten in the morning. The walk from the bus terminal to the old town followed a gentle uphill path, where the brilliant blue shimmer of the distant Adriatic gradually grew larger with each step. Weaving between stone houses, I caught the distinctive scent that seemed to float from nowhere—a mixture of sea salt and the faint aroma of spices.
My accommodation was a guesthouse in the heart of the old town, housed in a renovated Ottoman-style building dating from the 15th century. Beyond the heavy wooden door, stone floors covered with Arabic-patterned carpets welcomed me inside. The room was simple but clean, with a small balcony offering panoramic views of both the fortress and the sea. After settling in and catching my breath, I immediately set out to explore the town.
For lunch, I visited a small restaurant called “Café Terasa,” recommended by a local. From the terrace seating along the fortress walls, emerald-green waters stretched below while Albania’s distant mountains appeared hazy on the horizon. I ordered “Riba na Žara,” a local fish dish featuring that morning’s catch—sea bass grilled over charcoal and seasoned simply with olive oil, lemon, and local herbs. The fish was surprisingly tender, with the sea’s saltiness dancing alongside the herbs’ fragrance. Paired with local white wine “Vranac,” I lost track of time while enjoying this meal bathed in afternoon sunlight.
The afternoon was spent wandering slowly through the old town. The cobblestone alleys were narrow, some barely shoulder-width. The stone houses lining both sides seemed to layer different architectural periods, simultaneously reflecting Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman influences. The circular tower called Balša Tower dates from the 14th century, preserving echoes of the Venetian Republic era. Adjacent to it stood an 18th-century mosque, its minaret striking with blue tile decorations.
As evening approached, locals emerged into the alleys for neighborly conversations. Elderly women dressed in black while men sat on stone steps playing a game resembling chess. Though we shared no common language, they smiled warmly and waved when I smiled at them. There was a genuine, simple kindness in how they welcomed this foreign visitor.
For dinner, I chose “Stari Ulcinj,” a restaurant housed within a 16th-century stone building in the old town. Illuminated only by candlelight, the atmosphere transported me to medieval times. The specialty “Ćevapi” consisted of lamb and beef mince formed into small cylinders and grilled over charcoal, served wrapped in flatbread with onions and sour cream. Despite its simplicity, the dish offered profound flavors that paired beautifully with the local red wine.
Walking back to my accommodation after dinner, I paused to gaze at the nighttime sea from atop the fortress. Moonlight glittered across the water’s surface while distant fishing boat lights twinkled like stars. The day’s bustle had completely subsided, leaving only the sound of waves and the occasional call to evening prayer drifting through the air. In this silence, I realized I was already falling under Ulcinj’s spell.
Day 2: Embracing Nature’s Gifts at Great Beach and the River Island
I woke to birdsong and the distant morning call to prayer. Stepping onto the balcony, I watched sunrise paint the Adriatic in golden hues, announcing a new day’s beginning. After a simple breakfast, I decided to dedicate this day to fully experiencing both nature and culture.
The morning took me to “Velika Plaža” (Great Beach), located about three kilometers south of Ulcinj. This beautiful sandy beach stretches for 13 kilometers, earning the local nickname “Europe’s last paradise.” A twenty-minute ride on a small bus from the old town brought me to this remarkable destination.
The moment my feet touched the sand, I was speechless at its beauty. Fine golden sand extended endlessly, while the crystal-clear seawater shifted from pale blue in the shallows to deep azure toward the horizon. Being still early in the tourist season, the beach was nearly deserted, feeling like my own private paradise.
The water was slightly cool but perfectly comfortable for swimming. Gentle waves lapped while soft sand caressed my feet, and I floated on my back gazing up at the sky. Cloudless blue stretched overhead with seabirds occasionally gliding gracefully past. In this silence, I felt the day-to-day noise and worries being washed away with each wave.
Lunch was at “Plaža,” a small beachside restaurant. From the wooden terrace overlooking the sea, I savored fresh seafood caught that morning by local fishermen. “Frutti di Mare” featured fresh shellfish, shrimp, and squid steamed in white wine and garlic—a dish that concentrated the ocean’s bounty into pure flavor. For dessert, I enjoyed “Fiks u Medu,” made with local figs and honey. The natural sweetness spreading across my palate while dining in the sea breeze was exceptional.
The afternoon brought me to “Ada Bojana,” a small island about thirty minutes by car from Ulcinj. This triangular island, formed at the mouth of the Bojana River on the Montenegro-Albania border, is known as a naturist destination, but what drew me was its unique ecosystem.
Crossing the bridge to the island felt like entering another world entirely. The brackish waters where river meets sea support rare flora and fauna, making it ideal for birdwatching. Local guide Mirko, who has observed the island’s nature for over thirty years, led me around while explaining the area’s history and ecosystem in fluent English.
“This island changes shape slightly every year,” Mirko explained. “It’s like a work of art created by nature itself, shaped by sand carried by river currents and ocean waves.” Indeed, at the island’s tip where river and sea waters mingled, the boundary line was clearly visible due to different water clarity levels. Witnessing this natural phenomenon filled me with deep appreciation for nature’s power and beauty.
Returning to Ulcinj’s old town for dinner, I chose “Restaurant Pirate,” a uniquely themed establishment. Owner Ahmed, a cheerful middle-aged man, called his establishment “a hideout for Adriatic pirates.”
“Ulcinj was once a base for Barbary pirates,” Ahmed told me. “From the 16th to 18th centuries, many pirates lived in this town, operating across the Mediterranean. The old town still preserves traces of that era.”
For dinner, I ordered “Pršni Janjdžuk,” a traditional dish of lamb simmered in yogurt and herbs, prepared according to recipes inherited from Ottoman times. The meat was tender enough to cut with chopsticks, with yogurt’s tanginess perfectly balanced by herbs like mint and dill. Accompanied by “Proklord,” a strong local brandy, the meal warmed me from within.
The night concluded with stargazing from atop the fortress. A canopy of stars impossible to see in urban areas spread overhead, with the Milky Way clearly visible. As sea breezes caressed my cheeks and waves whispered quietly below, my second day in this beautiful town came to an end. Knowing tomorrow meant departure brought an inevitable touch of melancholy.
Day 3: A Morning of Farewell and Lasting Memories
On my final morning, I woke earlier than usual. In the pre-dawn dimness, I quietly slipped from bed onto the balcony. The eastern sky was beginning to lighten, with the sea’s horizon starting to glow golden. Wanting to etch this beautiful scene into my memory, I stood gazing at the sea for a long while.
Breakfast was a special traditional Montenegrin meal prepared by Fatima, the guesthouse owner. “Burek”—thin pastry filled with cheese and baked—accompanied by rich Turkish coffee and local honey with cheese. Though simple, every item had distinct, authentic flavors, providing a heartwarming final meal befitting the journey’s end.
Fatima, a woman in her sixties who had lived in Ulcinj her entire life, shared her perspective: “This town may be small, but it’s a special place where cultures from around the world blend together. Ottoman, Venetian, Slavic, and modern European cultures—they all harmonize here. That’s Ulcinj’s charm.”
With several hours before departure, I decided to walk through the old town one final time. The stone-paved paths I’d grown familiar with over three days looked different today. Each stone, each house, each sound from around the corners—everything felt precious, worthy of being carefully preserved in memory.
Visiting the old town market, I found locals selling vegetables, fish, and handicrafts. Despite language barriers, we exchanged smiles and greetings, and I purchased olive oil and local honey as souvenirs. The elderly shopkeeper asked in broken English, “How was Ulcinj for you?” When I replied “Wonderful,” his face lit up with joy.
For lunch, I returned to the memorable “Café Terasa,” taking the same table as my first day to savor my final meal while gazing at the sea. I ordered “Risotto di Pesce,” a seafood risotto brimming with Adriatic treasures. Each bite brought back memories from these three days.
After finishing the meal and returning to pack, I felt as though I was somehow packing my heart along with my belongings into the small suitcase. During checkout, Fatima presented me with a handmade charm. “Keep this, and you’ll surely return to Ulcinj someday,” she said with a smile.
The walk to the bus terminal was downhill, the reverse of my arrival journey. Looking back, the fortress still stood watching over the sea, unchanged in its eternal vigil. It had surely witnessed countless travelers departing and arriving over hundreds of years.
Boarding the bus and settling into a window seat, I watched as the engine started and we slowly pulled away from Ulcinj. My final glimpse was of a small fishing boat floating on the blue Adriatic, with Albania’s mountains hazy in the distance.
As the bus entered the mountain roads and Ulcinj vanished from view, I felt something warm remaining in my chest. This wasn’t merely tourist memories, but a heartfelt connection with a place, a culture, and the people I’d encountered. Though only a three-day stay, Ulcinj had claimed a special place within me.
What Felt Real Despite Being Imaginary
This journey unfolded entirely within my imagination—a fantasy trip through words alone. Yet while writing, I experienced the illusion of actually walking those cobblestones, feeling those sea breezes, and tasting those flavors. Perhaps this happens because Ulcinj’s unique charm and the warmth of its people can somehow be transmitted even through imagination alone.
Montenegro’s Ulcinj does indeed exist as the beautiful town described here, and much of the scenery, culture, and cuisine depicted reflects reality. The Adriatic’s beauty, Ottoman-era architecture, the coexistence of diverse religions and cultures, and the rich Mediterranean culinary tradition—these are all genuine treasures found in this small town.
Even as an imaginary journey, it remains vividly preserved as real memory in my heart. The texture of cobblestones, the colors of the sea, people’s smiles, the taste of meals, and above all, the beauty of a place where different cultures live in harmony. While products of imagination, they also represent longing for the wonderful realities that exist in our world.
Someday, I hope this imaginary journey becomes reality, allowing me to actually walk Ulcinj’s cobblestones. When that day comes, surely these imagined memories will interweave with real experiences, creating even deeper emotions.
Travel isn’t only physical movement—it’s also about touching different worlds within our hearts. Through this imaginary journey, we can nurture both our yearning for unknown places and our respect for the people who call them home. I sincerely hope that the beautiful town of Ulcinj will preserve its charm forever.
