Arriving at the Orange-Scented Port City
Valencia, Spain’s third-largest city facing the Mediterranean Sea, holds a mysterious charm where ancient Roman history coexists with masterpieces of contemporary architecture. The city’s name derives from the Latin word “Valentia,” meaning “valor,” and true to its name, this land has nurtured its unique culture while repeatedly embracing waves of different civilizations.
Valencia is known worldwide as the birthplace of paella, but that’s not all. The surrounding orange groves are called “Europe’s orchard,” and when spring arrives, the fragrance of blossoms envelops the entire city. The City of Arts and Sciences, designed by Santiago Calatrava, stands as a modern temple embodying 21st-century architectural aesthetics.
From the old town that retains strong influences from the Islamic period to the seaside areas where Mediterranean waves can be heard, Valencia reveals different faces with every step. In this multifaceted city, I wanted to feel the pulse of this land as deeply as possible during my brief two-night, three-day stay.
Day 1: Footsteps Echoing on Old Town Cobblestones
After a two-and-a-half-hour journey on the AVE high-speed train from Madrid, I arrived at Valencia’s Joaquín Sorolla Station around 10 a.m. Stepping out of the station, the bright Mediterranean sunlight caressed my cheeks. I could detect a faint scent of salt in the air.
I took Metro Line 3 to Xàtiva Station and walked from there toward the old town. As my footsteps echoed on the cobblestone streets, my first destination was Valencia Cathedral. Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, this cathedral is like a museum of architectural styles, blending Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque elements.
Stepping inside the cathedral, I found light streaming through stained glass windows, painting colorful patterns on the floor. Particularly striking was the “Holy Grail” enshrined in the Chapel of the Holy Chalice. Thinking that this might be the cup Christ used at the Last Supper, I felt overwhelmed by the weight of history. Climbing the cathedral’s bell tower, “El Miguelete,” I had a panoramic view of Valencia’s cityscape. Beyond the vista of connected orange-tiled roofs, the blue horizon of the Mediterranean was faintly visible.
I had lunch at a small tavern near the cathedral. The elderly owner recommended arroz a banda (seafood paella) paired with local white wine. “The only real paella is Valencian,” he said with a laugh. Indeed, the flavor—with saffron’s aroma and the umami of seafood dancing in my mouth—had a depth unlike any paella I’d tasted before.
In the afternoon, I headed to the Central Market. Built in 1928, this market is a beautiful Art Nouveau building that serves as Valencia’s kitchen. The sight of colorful vegetables and fruits, fresh seafood from the Mediterranean, truly told the story of Mediterranean abundance. In one corner of the market, I tried horchata (a traditional drink made from tiger nuts called chufa) for the first time. Its subtle sweetness and almond-like flavor spread through my mouth, gently refreshing my throat on that hot afternoon.
As evening approached, I wandered through the back alleys of the old town. Along the narrow cobblestone streets, laundry hung from balconies of old apartments. Seeing everyday life naturally coexisting with historical buildings, I felt the richness of life these people enjoyed.
For dinner, I hopped between several small bars in the Barrio del Carmen district. Nibbling on tapas and savoring Valencian wine among locals, communication flowed through smiles and gestures even without sharing a language. Particularly memorable was the flamenco danced by an elderly couple. As this impromptu performance began, surrounding patrons joined in with clapping, and the entire bar was wrapped in a warm atmosphere.
By the time I returned to my lodging, street lamps were gently illuminating the old town’s cobblestones. Valencia showed a different, more intimate nighttime expression than during the day, and I found my heart already captivated.
Day 2: Harmony Woven by Art and Nature
I had breakfast at a café near my lodging, mixing with the locals. The aroma of café con leche and freshly baked croissants announced the beginning of a peaceful morning. The café master seemed to remember every regular customer who came at the same time each day, and he treated even travelers like me with warmth.
In the morning, I headed to the City of Arts and Sciences. About 20 minutes by metro, the white structures suddenly appearing amid the modern cityscape felt as if they had materialized from another planet. These buildings designed by Santiago Calatrava combine organic curves with geometric beauty, changing expression depending on the viewing angle.
I first visited the Science Museum “Príncipe Felipe.” Inside the building, said to be modeled after a dinosaur skeleton, I could touch the wonders of science through interactive exhibits. Particularly fascinating was the exhibit recreating the Mediterranean ecosystem, where I learned in detail about the seabed off Valencia’s coast.
Next, I visited the Oceanogràfic (ocean park). At this aquarium, one of Europe’s largest, you can observe marine life not only from the Mediterranean but from around the world. Walking through the underground tunnel aquarium, watching sharks and rays swimming gracefully overhead, I felt the illusion of being underwater. During the dolphin show, the synchronized performance between trainers and dolphins naturally drew applause.
For lunch, I savored dishes rich with seafood at a restaurant near the City of Arts and Sciences. Particularly impressive was the grilled octopus, said to have been caught that morning by local fishermen. The simple seasoning of olive oil and garlic enhanced the octopus’s natural sweetness. Through the window, I could see the flowing curves of the opera house “Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía,” enjoying the luxury of appreciating architectural beauty while dining.
In the afternoon, I extended my journey to Albufera Natural Park. About 30 minutes by bus from the city, rice paddies and lagoons spread out before me. This wetland has supported Valencia’s rice cultivation since ancient times, and high-quality rice is still grown here today. I learned that authentic paella uses rice from this very Albufera.
At the lagoon, I boarded a small boat and slowly crossed the water while watching the sunset. The sunset reflecting on the water glowed orange, and in the distance, a flock of flamingos rested their wings—a scene as beautiful as a painting. The boatman was born and raised on this land, from a fishing family spanning generations since his grandfather’s time. Listening to his old stories, I could sense the history of people’s lives rooted in this land.
For dinner, I savored authentic paella valenciana at a traditional restaurant on the shores of Albufera. This paella, made with chicken, rabbit, green beans, white beans, and Albufera rice, had a different profound flavor from the seafood paella I’d eaten yesterday. With the aroma of saffron, I felt as if the history and culture of this land were embedded in each bite.
On the bus ride back, gazing at the night scenery flowing past the window, I was struck again by Valencia’s multifaceted nature. Ancient history and cutting-edge architecture, urban hustle and natural tranquility—everything coexists in harmony. The people of this city must naturally accept such diversity in their daily lives.
Day 3: A Morning of Farewell and Eternal Memory
On my final morning, I woke early and headed to Malvarrosa Beach. This beach facing the Mediterranean has been beloved as a retreat for Valencia’s citizens. Though it was around 7 a.m., I already saw people jogging and residents walking their dogs.
Sitting on the sand, watching the Mediterranean sunrise while reflecting on the past two days, the sound of waves was rhythmic, like a heartbeat marking the passage of time. I realized that despite knowing nothing of this city just days ago, I already felt affection for it.
Walking along the coast, I found a small café preparing to open. When I spoke to the owner, a woman, she kindly brewed me morning coffee. The taste of café solo (espresso) while gazing at the Mediterranean at this local café known only to residents was exceptional. She shared memories of growing up on this beach in broken English. She told me that while the beach fills with swimmers in summer, this morning hour is the most beautiful.
In the morning, for my final sightseeing, I explored the area around North Station. Valencia North Station, built in 1917, is a beautiful Modernist building—the station itself like a work of art. The station’s decoration features tiles with orange motifs, Valencia’s specialty product, and I felt the love for this land embedded in every detail.
I also visited the National Museum of Ceramics near the station. The area around Valencia has long been known as a pottery production center, and this museum displays beautiful ceramics from the 15th century to the present. I was particularly captivated by the beauty of 18th-century azulejos (decorative tiles). The delicate patterns in blue and white retain strong Islamic cultural influences, making me realize anew the cultural depth of this land.
For lunch, I savored my final Valencian meal at a long-established restaurant near the station. Fideuà (a noodle version of paella), horchata, and fartón (pumpkin and saffron cake)—a traditional Valencian combination. Each dish seemed to contain the blessings of this land’s sun, sea, and earth.
In the afternoon, I walked through the old town once more. It looked completely different from when I first set foot here two days ago. Each cobblestone, the flowers adorning building windows, the statue of the Virgin Mary standing at street corners—everything felt like familiar friends. Stopping by a small bookstore, I found a book about Valencia’s history. Written in Spanish and incomprehensible to me, I bought it as a memento.
While packing in the evening, I was surprised by the magnitude of what I’d gained from this brief stay. New landscapes and foods, interactions with people I’d met, and above all, the changes I felt in myself within this foreign culture. I thought again that the true value of travel lies not in what you see or eat, but in the emotions and realizations you experience through them.
Before leaving Valencia, I visited the cathedral one more time. The cathedral tower, illuminated by the setting sun, glowed a different orange than on the morning I arrived. As the sound of bells rang through the city, I felt certain that the time spent in this city would mature beautifully in my memory.
As Valencia’s cityscape gradually grew smaller from the train window, I vowed to visit this city again someday. The scent of orange blossoms, the blue Mediterranean sea, footsteps echoing on cobblestones, and the warm smiles of its people—everything is etched deep in my heart.
What Felt Certain Despite Being Imaginary
Though this journey was born in imagination, the charm of Valencia has certainly been engraved in my heart. The texture of walking on the old town’s cobblestones, the saffron aroma of paella, the Mediterranean sea breeze, the flowing curves of contemporary architecture, the Albufera sunset, and above all, the warmth of the people living there. All of these remain vividly in my memory as if actually experienced.
Perhaps travel doesn’t necessarily require physical movement. With imagination and curiosity, one can step into a new world from anywhere. Through this imaginary journey, longing and affection for the city of Valencia were born. And when I truly visit this city someday, these imaginary memories will surely enrich the real experience.
These two nights and three days in Valencia, wrapped in Mediterranean sunlight, will undoubtedly remain forever in my heart as a journey that certainly existed.
