I wanted to ride a long-distance sleeper train in the United States. I took Amtrak’s Empire Builder from Seattle to Chicago — 45 hours and 3,550 km.
Booking
Book through Amtrak’s website. The departure station is Seattle King Street Station; the arrival station is Chicago Union Station. Search results may include connecting services, so make sure to select the direct train. The Empire Builder runs daily.
Seating is divided into Coach (unreserved seats) and private rooms. Private rooms come in three tiers: Roomette, Bedroom, and Family Room. I chose a Roomette. Pay by credit card and receive the ticket by email.
A few days before departure, you may receive an email offering an upgrade via auction. It’s cheaper than the regular fare for the higher class, but spots fill up quickly — register immediately if interested.
Boarding
I arrived at Seattle King Street Station about an hour before departure. Seattle’s station has no lounge, so I waited on a bench inside the station building. Boarding began about 20 minutes before departure, with sleeper car passengers boarding first. At the gate, a staff member tells you your car number. Go to that car, show your ticket to the attendant, and board.
Roomette
A Roomette is a two-person private compartment. The lower level serves as a seat during the day and converts to a bed at night. The upper level is a fold-down bed. The attendant sets up the beds each evening. The room has power outlets and a reading light but no private shower — you use the shared shower room in the car.
Sleeper car passengers get complimentary water and coffee (available near the car entrance). All dining car meals are also included in the fare.
Dining Car
After departure, a dining car staff member visits each room to take dinner reservations. You choose from 18:00, 19:00, or 20:00. Breakfast and lunch are walk-in — no reservation needed.
Seating is communal. On the first night, I ordered the steak: a shrimp appetizer, steak main, and dessert. The portions were surprisingly generous for a train. Conversation with fellow passengers is part of the dining car experience. Leave a tip on the table when you finish.
The second night I had chicken. The third morning, French toast. Every meal was large enough that I skipped lunch both days.
Shower
Roomette passengers use the shared shower room. It has an anteroom for undressing and a separate shower stall. The door between them can swing open, so don’t leave anything in the anteroom that you don’t want getting wet. I brought a large garbage bag to keep my clothes and belongings dry.
Soap is provided; shampoo is not — bring your own. The shower operates with a push button: press for hot water, press again when it stops. There’s a seat inside the stall for stability while the train is moving. Towels are plentiful in the anteroom.
Extended Station Stops
The train makes extended stops every few hours. You can step outside for fresh air, but don’t wander far — you won’t hear the departure signal. You must reboard from your own car, as the attendant does a headcount. Boarding a different car causes confusion.
Scenery
Outside of cities and station areas, the tracks run through vast wilderness. Cell phone coverage is spotty in many stretches, so download content to your phone beforehand.
At Spokane, the train couples with Train 28 arriving from Portland. The combined train continues to Chicago.
Arrival in Chicago
Amtrak trains often run late due to freight train conflicts, but this time we arrived at Chicago Union Station slightly ahead of schedule. Tip your attendant when you disembark.
